Showing posts with label Interior. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Interior. Show all posts

March 12, 2013

Rio Dancer Chair


Sometimes you see something so fantastic on Pinterest that you are blinded and have to find out more. That is what happend with this chair. I saw it and thought “rainbow fish” but only in the nicest way. I think it’s beautiful, and if I had any extra money it would be mine immediately. I can’t believe that is all felt.

February 02, 2013

Pretty lace flower pots


Here's a quick little project we whipped up in our studio today. We've been doing a little decorating and these lace covered pots look so pretty in a group. Do you want to make your own set?


This DIY is so simple it doesn't even really need these photos, but just in case... 1. Supplies Needed: Lace, Glue, Scissors, Terra Cotta Pots, Plants. 2. Brush glue all over your pot. 3. Adhere lace and then brush an extra layer of glue over the top to seal. 4. Allow your new pots to dry completely before you use them.

DIY Honeycomb Shelves


This project is a little bit more involved because of the tools, but stick with it and you're going to have some amazing shelves. This DIY will make a three-comb shelf, and once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to make more combs to add to it.


Supplies needed: A miter saw (or chop saw), wood screws or sheet rock screws at 1 1/4", a drill and drill bit (drill bit should be slightly smaller than the screws you are using), a level, a rotary sander (or sandpaper will work fine), wood glue, a tape measurer, some wall brackets, a pencil for marking measurements, and 3 fencing planks from your hardware or lumber store! *When choosing your wood at the store, check to make sure the wood isn't warped or twisty! Choose planks that are as level as possible.*


1. Make sure and set your miter saw to cut angles at 30 degrees! You won't have to change this setting at all for the entire project. 2. Most fencing planks have one end that is a little more decorative - chop this off at the 30 degree angle. 3. After you make your first cut, turn over the plank so you are measuring your long edge. Measure 12" and mark where you want your next cut to be. 4. Make your 2nd cut right along the edge where you marked. You have your first piece! Repeat this for every single piece. In this DIY, you will need to cut 15 pieces. (Keep in mind as you're cutting your pieces, each piece should look like this. Note how the ends look - there should be one long edge that measures 12", and the angled cuts should both go in to make the other side shorter.)


5. Count your pieces and make sure there are 15 and that they are all the exact same size. 6. To make your first hexagon pod, take six pieces and set them standing up on the ground. It will feel kind of like figuring out a puzzle! Designate which side will be the base of your shelf and work up from there. Make sure they are exactly how you want them before continuing. 7. Working on one side at a time, use your wood glue to bind one side to the other. 8. Press the sides firmly together for a few seconds.


9. Using the drill and the drill bit, pre-drill your holes where you will want to screw the two pieces together. This will make it easier to screw, and it will prevent the wood from cracking. 10. Screw the two pieces together. Josh recommends putting two screws in each piece attaching to the base of each hexagon, and then just using one screw on each of the side pieces. 11. Repeat steps 7-10 on each side until you have finished your first hexagon! 12. Now it's time to add on to your original hexagon. Instead of making a bunch of hexagons separately, you will start with the first one and then add on to it, so each hexagon "borrows" sides from what you already have. This is an example of how the sides work to fit together. It's a good idea to set up the next hexagon with the already-built hexagon so you can see how you want it to look (like in step 6), and then carry out the rest of the steps, and use that same process for the third hexagon.


13. This is how all three will look together! Josh added some shelves inside a couple of them. If you're feeling brave enough to add these, then just measure the width of the middle of your comb (or where you want your shelf to go) and use that as your long side measurement, cutting the ends at an angle the same way you cut your other pieces. It might be a slightly different measurement depending on which comb you use for your shelf. 14. Using your sander or sand paper, sand down all of the edges once you're finished! Not only will it take away splinters, but if you're using a pre-stained wood (like we are) it will give it a really nice worn look.

Ok! Now you're ready to hang your honeycomb shelves! Here are some hanging tips to make sure your shelves are sturdy and can hold a good amount of weight. *First of all, when you choose the wall you're going to hang your shelves on, find your studs first to screw the brackets into. If you're not sure how to find a stud, start knocking on the wall until the sound of your knock doesn't feel so deep, echoey, and hollow. A good way to tell if you've hit a stud or not is to try hammering a small nail into the wall. If it's harder to hammer in, you've found a stud. If it's really easy and the nail goes all the way into the wall, it's not a stud. You can also get a small, inexpensive stud finder at the hardware store if you want to go the guess-free route!*


1. Once you've found your stud, screw the bottom part of the bracket into the wall. 2. Put some pressure on the top part of the bracket, just to make sure it's sturdy and will hold a little weight. 3. Now you can rest your shelf on the bracket with the level on the bottom shelf. While your shelf is hanging and level, go ahead and mark where your next brackets will go, screw them into the studs. 4. Using your shorter screws, screw the brackets into your shelf for reinforcement. And you're done! Time to add your personality to it.


Phew! If you made it all the way through then consider yourself a champion with cute storage.

Recycled mosaic skateboard tiles


Over the years designers have learned to recycle old skateboards, giving them a second life in new furniture pieces. Although the concept of recycling old skateboards may not be entirely new, transforming your thrashed deck into a beautiful mosaic tiled backsplash is.

There are literally countless skateboards snapped in half each year, most of which are completely thrown away. The designers at Art Of Board have taken this laminated maple, and transformed it into decorative art tiles to cover any wall in your household. The tiles are all hand cut from 100% recycled skate decks and can be purchased by the square foot.

January 28, 2013

Mini Copper Planters


Materials:
- Copper cap fittings (in the sizes of your choice)
- Bottle of Ketchup
- Mini plants/blooms


The copper caps really don't require much attention other than a good cleaning, which admittedly, is a bit of a strange process. First, gently hand wash them with mild soap.


Now this is where it gets weird: To get most of the tarnish off of the copper in the simplest way possible, lather the outsides of them with ketchup. Yes, you read correctly. The vinegar in ketchup has just enough acidic properties to give the copper a good cleaning. Let it sit for about a half an hour, then rinse. It's surprising what a difference it makes. All that's left now is planting, and voila!



What do you think? Do you have any creative uses for copper around the house?

January 25, 2013

Electrified Fox Lamp Tutorial


First, you need a stuffed animal. This fox pattern is available here, but you can use any animal you like as long as it's not made of fur, and you don't have to sew your own. I used the fox but modified the tail like this:


so that the light strand could go up the tail, too. I cut a curve into the side and then handstitched the tail on.


Next, I stuffed the fox and left the bottom open.


And now comes the fun part. You get to cover the whole creature with Stiffy! This stuff is so fun, I swear. You basically brush it on thick and let it dry. It turns the fabric into a hard shell. And it doesn't stink! Extra points for that!


Now you get to eviscerate your animal. After the Stiffy is totally dry, gently pull out all the stuffing. I used a pencil wrapped in duct tape to poke up into the far corners and grab the stuffing. Sort of spin the pencil around in there.


Like cotton candy!


Trim the bottom edge off so that the fox stands up straight. And cut a snip out for the light cord.


And stuff the light string inside and up the tail and into the head. Please use LED lightsso you don't burn down your house.


And voila. You can really use any animal for this, and you don't have to sew your own. Just coat it with Stiffy, and then cut an inconspicuous hole in the back to remove the stuffing and insert the lights.

January 24, 2013

Make a Bent Wood Hand-Shaped Bowl


Give yourself a helping hand, with some hand-shaped bowls. These bowls are made of bent wood, and are great for keeping your everyday carrying things in one place when you're at home; dump your keys, phone, coins and other sundries into a pair of open hands to keep them safe. Place this hands near your front door or coffee table you're sure to have a conversation piece the next time you have visitors.

This project uses thin plywood bent with steam and shaped over large bowls to create the shape, then stained with shoe polish to bring out the grain. Though they sell plywood at most lumber stores I would advise against using 1/2" or 1/4" variety commonly sold there, it's just too thick. You will need thin plywood which is easily found at craft stores, the plywood used for this project was 1/8".

tools: jigsaw (rotary tool, or laser cutter), sandpaper (150-250 grit)
materials: thin birch plywood (3.1 x 152 x 304 mm [1/8 x 6 x 12"]), wood glue, shoe polish.


For the sheet of plywood I had, my hands were too large to both fit on the same piece. I had to ask for some help from someone with smaller hands, my Mum.
If your fingers are too beefy, you may need to find somebody with smaller hands to help with this part.

Loosely interlace fingers and place on plywood, heel of palm at back edge of plywood on each end. Make sure there's enough room between fingers to trace all digits without any overlap. With a pencil, trace between each finger.
The trace doesn't have to be perfect, there's plenty of time to refine the shape later. Make sure all digit tracings are approximate the correct width and length.


Now that you have an outline on your plywood, it's time to cut out the hand shapes.

I first scored the outline with a sharp utility knife, then used a manual jigsaw to separated the two hands for easier working.
Roughly cut out each hand, the cuts will be cleaned up in the following steps.

With the rough shape cut out of each hand, it's time to clean up the sharp edges.
Round off corners and any sharp edges, then sand using a rough grit (150) sandpaper. The shape doesn't have to be perfect, sand to a create smooth corners and a filleted edge.


After each hand has been roughly sanded we can steam them for bending.

Start by placing both hand cut-outs in warm water to soak while the steamer pot is being prepared.
While wood is soaking, place steamer basket in in large pot, then fill pot roughly 1/4 full with water. There needs to be enough water in pot to sustain a 7-10 minute boil, but not too much water that your steamer basket is completely submerged.
With water and basket in pot, cover pot with lid and place on high-heat to boil.

Once water has boiled, carefully remove lid and place wood hand cut-out on top of steamer basket. To determine the steam-time we can use the adage "one hour of steaming per one inch of wood". Actual time wood needs to bend will also depend on type of wood used...but you got the same wood I did, right?

Some quick math based on my plywood thickness: 1/8" / 60 = 7.5 minutes


After steaming, the wood will need to sit in a mold to create the bowl-like shape. The best bowls to use have a smooth transition from the tapered side of the bowl to the underside. I used stainless steel stackable metal mixing bowls since they fit together and mirror the desired shape.
NOTE: Ceramic bowls have a rough place on bottom of the dish from when it was fired, this can result in unintended imprints on your hands.

Once hands have steamed carefully remove from steamer and place between two of the stackable bowls and make a wood sandwich: smaller bowl : wood cut-out : larger bowl.

Using some pressure carefully compress the bowls together, squishing the hand between the bowls and bending the wood. Once the bowls are compressed place a heavy weight on top of the bowls to keep the wood from springing back into shape.
Leave wood cut-outs in bowls overnight to dry out.

CAUTION: Be gentle when bending wood, although the wood used is thin and easily bendable, there is a risk of cracking/splintering the wood if it's over-bent.
If in doubt, steam for a few minutes longer or reduce bend angle on wood.


After removing wood cut-outs from the overnight mold you may notice the wood de-laminating, the heat from steaming and stress from bending have pulled the layers of plywood apart.

Working one hand at a time, apply a thin layer of wood glue between each sheet of plywood and relaminate each hand.
After glue is applied drape each hand over bowls, bind glued hand cut-outs to bowls using masking tape. This is a good time to make any refinements to the bowl shape, once glue dries the final bowl shape will be set.

Smooth bottomed bowls were not necessary at this stage like they were for the steaming phase, as the wood is dry  and won't retain most indentations, just the curve shape.
Let glue cure overnight.

When dry use a utility knife and sandpaper to remove any glue burrs and smooth out and rough edges.
When sanding start with a coarse grit (75-150) and work your way up to a finer grit (250+), cleaning between each sandpaper sheet with a dry brush. Consider 3-4 sheets of sandpaper: 100, 150, 200, 250 grit should suffice.


If you didn't already know, show polish can be used to repair dings and minor damage to furniture.
With this technique in mind, I used shoe polish as the stain for these hands.

Shoe polish is typically made with turpentine, naphtha or some other mix of equally stinky stuff. Best to be in a well-ventilated area, I also used gloves.

I used a blend of brown and black shoe polish, giving the wood an antique look of weathered wood. Grab a gob of polish and smear it on the wood. Work the polish into the wood grains with a rag and brush, make sure to get into any cracks and between the fingers.
Let wood absorb the polish overnight.

Next, use a rag to wipe each hand of excess polish. Then work a small amount of talc or baby-powder into the hands with the cloth, this will absorb any residual polish and help give a dull buff to the wood. This step should take about 5 minutes for each hand.


After hands have been stained it's time to mount them, these hands were cupped and joined together to make a bowl.
Hands are versatile in amount of gestures they are able to create, this method of wood bending can replicate many of those same gestures allowing for a wide variety of designs.

January 06, 2013

A Tray with Mosaic Fragments

This wooden tray is painted with color craft paint. Mosaic fragments are attached onto the inside base of the tray using multi glue gel. Mosaic tile grout is used to fill all cracks.

1. Paint the tray with color craft paint and let it dry.

2. Apply multi glue gel to small areas at the time (approx. 5 x 5cm). Place the mosaic fragments in the wet glue. Continue and leave to dry when the entire base of the tray has been decorated with the mosaic fragments.

3. Fill all the cracks with mosaic tile grout using a palette knife or your fingers.

4. Remove excess tile grout using a damp cloth or a foam stencil brush and leave the tray to dry.

November 21, 2012

A Tea Light Candle Holder

The candle holder is painted with craft paint. The decorative border is cut from a sheet of design paper and glued along the edge with decoupage lacquer.

1. Paint the candle holder with off white craft paint.

2. Lightly sand the candle holder and you may apply another coat of paint.

3. Cut out a decorative patterned strip of design paper.

4. Glue the strips along the edges of the candle holder using decoupage lacquer.

5. Paint the tips of the pine cones to be used for decoration.